BERKELEY, Calif.(AP)
Robert Mondavi, the vintner who built his career and helped an
iconic Northern California industry blossom by insisting that Napa
Valley wines can compete with the best in the world, died in the
valley Friday. He was 94.
Mondavi died peacefully at his home in Yountville, Robert
Mondavi Winery spokeswoman Mia Malm said.
"It is hard to imagine anyone having more of a lasting
impact on California's $20 billion-a-year wine industry than
Robert Mondavi," Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger said in a
statement. Mondavi, said the governor, was "a tireless
entrepreneur who transformed how the world felt about California
wine, and an unforgettable personality to everyone who knew
him."
Mondavi was 52 and a winemaking veteran in 1966, when he opened
the winery that would help turn the Napa Valley into a world center
of the industry. Clashes with a brother that included a fistfight
led him to break from the family business to carry out his
ambitious plans with borrowed money.
When Mondavi opened his winery, California was still primarily
known for cheap jug wines. But he set out to change that,
championing use of cold fermentation, stainless steel tanks and
French oak barrels, all commonplace in the industry today. He
introduced blind tastings in Napa Valley, putting his wines up
against French vintages, a bold move.
His confidence was rewarded in 1976 when California wines beat
some well-known French vintages in the famous tasting known as the
Judgment of Paris.
"He had the single greatest influence in this country with
respect to high quality wine and its place at the table," wine
critic Robert Parker wrote in a chat room posting on his Web site
Friday. He called Mondavi "an exceptional man....a true
pioneer...a legendary pathfinder.....and I feel so priviledged to
have known him...a sad day...but also one to pay homage to his
enormous contributions."
Always convinced that California wines could compete with the
European greats, Mondavi engaged in the first French-American wine
venture when he formed a limited partnership with the legendary
French vintner Baron Philippe de Rothschild to grow and make the
ultra-premium Opus One at Oakville. The venture's first vintage
was in 1979.
The success of the Mondavi winery allowed him to donate tens of
millions of dollars to charity, but a wine glut and intense
competition gradually cost his family control of the business. In
2004, the company accepted a buyout worth $1.3 billion from
Fairport, N.Y.-based Constellation Brands.
Mondavi was an enthusiastic ambassador for wine _ especially
California wine _ and traveled the world into his 90s promoting the
health, cultural and social benefits of its moderate
consumption.
"He had an amazing life," said Robert C. Koch,
president and CEO of the San Francisco-based Wine Institute.
"He was a major driving force and an incredible promoter for
California wine and the Napa Valley."
Born in Virginia, Minn., Mondavi got an economics degree from
Stanford University in the 1930s and went to work at the Charles
Krug Winery, which his Italian-born parents had bought after moving
to California from Minnesota.
He married his high school sweetheart, Marjorie Declusin, in
1937, and they had three children, Michael, Marcia and Tim.
For 20 years, the winery was a family business. But Robert
clashed frequently with his younger brother, Peter, who had a more
conservative approach the business. According to Robert
Mondavi's autobiography "Harvests of Joy," matters
came to a head with a November 1965 fistfight.
"When it was all over, there were no apologies and no
handshake," wrote Robert Mondavi.
In the late 1970s, Mondavi's first marriage ended; in his
autobiography he wrote that his single-minded pursuit of the wine
business was partly to blame. In 1980, he married a second time, to
Margrit Biever, a native of Switzerland who had worked at the
Mondavi winery since the late '60s.
By the mid-1990s, Mondavi had turned over operation of the
company to his sons. But like their father and uncle before them,
Tim and Michael clashed over management styles.
More troubles emerged as a grape glut soured the wine market in
2002 and lower-priced wines in the Mondavi portfolio faced tough
competition from cheaper Australian imports and domestic brands
like California's Two Buck Chuck.
Also a problem were the millions in charitable donations Mondavi
and Margrit had pledged, including helping found Copia, The
American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts, in Napa and giving $35
million to the University of California, Davis.
In her 2007 book, "The House of Mondavi: The Rise and Fall
of an American Wine Dynasty," author Julia Flynn Siler wrote
that declining stock prices later left Mondavi in danger of not
being able to cover the millions in gifts he and Margrit had
promised.
A corporate restructuring in August 2004 boosted the stock
price, but undercut the family's control of the company. By
time it was bought out, Michael Mondavi, who disagreed with the
board strategy, had already left the company, and Tim Mondavi had
loosened ties.
Later there was a bittersweet family moment when Robert and
Peter Mondavi, aided by members of the younger generation, made
wine together for the first time in 40 years. Using a 50-50 split
of grapes from Robert Mondavi and Peter Mondavi family vineyards,
the brothers made one barrel of a cabernet blend that sold for
$401,000 at the 2005 Napa Valley wine auction.
The auction lot was called "Ancora Una Volta," or
"Once Again."
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